Marine Repairs, Made Simple

A hole in a hull two hours from the ramp used to mean a ruined weekend and a haul-out. Solar Patch is a fiberglass-reinforced repair patch that cures rock-hard in 5–10 minutes of sunlight — no mixing, no measuring, no shop appointment. Cut it, press it, let the sun finish the job.

It bonds to the materials boats are actually built from: fiberglass, aluminum, steel, and polyethylene.

Why Solar Patch Works on Boats

Marine repair has always meant a tradeoff. Two-part epoxies need mixing, measuring, and a warm dry space, with a pot life ticking down while you work. Tapes go on fast but peel the first cold morning. Fiberglass layup does the job properly and turns a twenty-minute problem into an afternoon.

Solar Patch removes the tradeoff by changing what triggers the cure. The resin stays soft and workable inside its sealed pouch, and hardens only when it sees UV light. No clock, no mixing ratio, no wasted material — you cut what you need and the rest stays usable.

On the water, that matters more than it sounds. A repair you can finish at the ramp, on a beach, or tied up at the dock is a repair that doesn't end the trip. Keep a patch and a UV light in the dry bag and most hull failures become a ten-minute delay instead of a tow.

What it bonds to on a boat

Fiberglass — hulls, decks, storage hatches, console panels

Aluminum — jon boats, riveted seams, trailer components

Steel — hardware mounts, trailer frames

Polyethylene — kayaks, canoes, livewells, poly tanks

Polyethylene is worth calling out. Most consumer epoxies and tapes fail on poly because very little sticks to it well — it's the material that sends people looking for a second solution after the first one lets go.

Once cured, the patch is rigid and waterproof, rated to 200°C dry and 90°C wet, and Class 1 fire rated to ASTM E84-18. It can be sanded and painted.

Choosing a Size

Cover the damage with about an inch of sound material all the way around. If a crack runs out from a hole, the patch has to cover the full crack and past its end — otherwise it keeps traveling underneath.

Small (3" × 6") — punctures, screw holes, short cracks

Medium (6" × 9") — larger holes, splits, seam sections

Large (9" × 12") — big holes, long cracks, extended seams

When in doubt, size up. You can always cut a patch down.

Before You Start

The surface has to be clean and dry. This is the step people skip and it's the most common reason a marine repair fails. Saltwater leaves residue, fiberglass picks up wax and oxidation, and aluminum forms a chalky oxide film — a patch bonded to any of those is bonded to a layer that's already letting go.

Scuff the area, wipe it down, let it dry fully. Then patch.

When Solar Patch Isn't the Right Call

Being straight about this is more useful than overselling it.

Structural damage. A patch seals a hole. It doesn't replace a transom, stringer, rib, or anything carrying load. If the hull flexes when you press on it, you need a professional repair or a welder.

A hull that's currently in the water. The surface must be dry at application. Cured Solar Patch is fully waterproof and holds below the waterline — but it can't bond to a wet hull. Trailer it, beach it, or dry the area first.

Anything under pressure. Solar Patch is not rated for pressurized systems, including pressurized fuel and hydraulic lines.

Offshore-critical repairs. A hole in a hull you take well offshore deserves a professional assessment, not a field patch.

Marine FAQ

Can it be used below the waterline? Yes, once cured — the cured patch is waterproof. But it has to be applied to a dry surface, so the repair happens out of the water.

Can it repair aluminum? Yes. Aluminum is one of its rated substrates. Scuff off the oxide film first.

Will it work on a polyethylene kayak? Yes. Polyethylene is one of the materials Solar Patch bonds to, which is unusual — most consumer repair products don't.

Can it be sanded and painted? Yes, once fully cured. Wear a dust mask and eye protection when sanding.

How fast does it cure? 5–10 minutes in direct sunlight. Under a gunwale, in shade, or after dark, a UV light does the same job faster.

How should I store it on a boat? Below 72°F, out of direct sunlight, in the sealed pouch. It cures on UV and heat — so a dry bag or a below-deck locker, not the dash.